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Snow Valley
Independent Distributor

PO Box 331,
Grand Forks, BC,
Canada V0H 1H0
(250) 442 2478


By Pete Snidal, B.Ed (Metals & Mechanics) (C)2000

Everybody knows the internal combustion engine operates at a disgustingly low efficiency - textbooks give figures of like 15%. Obviously, there is much room for improvement, here, and everything we can do to increase this efficiency is good for our pocketbooks, and also for our atmosphere, since the engine exhausts what it doesn't use back into the ecosystem, as heat and unburnt hydrocarbons. So engineers have been trying to make engines:

Let's Review What Happens in a Gasoline Engine:

1) The Intake Stroke

On each intake stroke, the piston moving down the cylinder draws in a gulp of air, mixed in the carburetor or induction tract, with a quantity of gasoline. At the time the gasoline droplets are introduced into the air stream, precombustion begins to take place. This is a form of slow oxidation in which your precious gasoline is already beginning to unite with oxygen, - to be consumed - with no value to you. Our Gasoline Additive inhibits this precombustion, both in the intake and compression phases of engine operation.

2) The Compression Stroke

The intake valve closes at the end of the intake stroke, and the piston returns to the top of the closed cylinder on the compression stroke. This compresses and pre-heats the fuel mix, preparing it for combustion on the power, or combustion stroke. But this pre-heating serves to increase the speed of the pre-oxidation process already begun as described above. Our additive also inhibits this preoxidation, saving you fuel for the Right Time: the Power Stroke.

3) The Power Stroke

As the piston reaches the top of the closed cylinder, the legitimate combustion of your fuel is about to begin. The spark plug fires, and a flame front advances from the top of the combustion chamber , to meet the piston just as it goes over the top and is on the way down. This flame front is the vanguard of an expanding cloud of burning gasses, which is what your internal combustion engine is all about, driving the piston away from the cylinder head and rotating the crankshaft to make the power you need to get from A to B. In this stage, motion is what you want, but you also get unecessary heat as an inefficiency bi-product. The Combustion Enhancer mixed in with your fuel will give you more efficient burning, making for better power, and producing less waste heat in the process.


This more efficient combustion has another benefit : you make a given amount of power with less throttle opening, meaning less fuel is admitted into the cylinder on each intake stroke, resulting in lower fuel consumption in this way as well.

What Stops The Power Stroke?

Ever wonder this? - Why doesn't the piston just keep going down until all the fuel is burned? Like, right through the crankshaft and oilpan, and out onto the road?

This is important: Regardless of how efficiently your fuel has burned, or how much combustion value is left in the cylinder at the time the piston has reached its lower limit, the power stroke is brought to an end by the opening of the exhaust valve. The pressure is relieved by this opening, accompanied by an outrushing of exhaust gasses and unburnt fuel through the exhaust port , the exhaust system, and into the atmosphere we all try to breathe. Whether the fuel charge is completely spent, or there is lots left in it yet to burn, when the valve opens, out she goes, through the exhaust port, past the cat converter, through the muffler and exhaust pipe, and into the atmosphere.

What's a Cat Converter?

Your Catalytic Converter is a device in the exhaust system which has been put there in recognition of the poor efficiency of your engine. Its function is to continue to burn the unburnt hydrocarbons in your exhaust gas, in an attempt to clean up the mess your engine is making by inefficient combustion. If you look under your car for the cat converter, you will see that it is heavily heat-shielded - this "after burning" produces a great deal of completely useless heat, which is just carried away in the air stream, giving no benefit to you the driver, - and in fact just creating more problems with heat pollution.

Obviously, the more complete the combustion in your actual engine, the less burning is going to take place in your cat converter. Less useless heat going away like the flying dollar bills in the cartoons. Once again, using our gasoline additive puts less strain on your cat converter, giving it less unburnt hydrocarbons to convert to useless heat.

Is There A Basis To Believe All These Additive Claims?

If you've read this far, you've seen a lot of claims . Well, when the rubber hits the road, is there any evidence that these claims are justified? Yes, there is, both in laboratory tests , and in actual user experience. Here's how users know that our additive is working for them:

Actual user reports tell me that all these claims are true. My motorcycle, a '69 Triumph TR6 collector piece, hasn't yet discolored the chrome exhaust pipes at the ports. Japanese motorcycle manufacturers actually use double exhaust pipes to get around this discoloration phenomenon, and we riders of Brit bikes have always just gotten used to it. My "new" pipes are in their fourth season, and there's still no sign whatever of discoloration. This tells me that there's virtually no "after burning" of unburnt gasses as they enter my pipes - and helps to explain why my mileage jumped from 10 mi/L to 14 when I started using it 5 years ago. Yes, that's a 40% increase!

Many users who've had overheating problems in RV's and trucks report the virtual disappearance of these troubles just by adding an ounce of Gas Additive to each tank of fuel, and using a half-bottle of our oil treatment to an oil change. What a Cheap way to get rid of a problem!

Users are getting through AirCare inspections - necessary in Vancouver BC - after having failed the first test, just by starting to use GT5 and then taking the test again after a couple of tankfuls. The pipe sniffing machinery at the AirCare centers is just confirming what the engine analyzers in the original lab tests had to say: the increased mileage is due to increased efficiency, and results in decreases in expelled unburnt hydrocarbons! It's simple!

Will this work for you? I suggest you give our additive a try and find out for yourself! And while you're at it, you might want to try out our oil additive too, and experience the effects of reduced friction on further reduction in heating, engine wear, and fuel consumption.

How Much Does All This Cost?

Good question! After all, if the stuff costs more than it saves, what's the point of using it? But as it happens, enough gas additive to treat 626 L (~165 gal.) of gasoline costs only $US13, $Cdn16. And the experience of myself and many of my customers shows that $2.00 worth saves $15 worth of gas! Does this mean that $16.00 worth saves me over $100.00 worth of gas? Do the math! Well worth the trouble of getting out and pouring in an ounce per tankful! (Hint: 2 X 8 = 16. 15 X 8 = 120. Hard to believe, but I have plenty of believers in MY town!)

Why Take My Word For It? If you want to try some, find out how to order by referring to my products page